Tag Archives: anti-oxidants and anti-aging

Anti-Oxidants Critical To Anti-Aging

Demand For Anti-Aging Products Soaring

Anti-aging products now account for close to $9.8 billion of the skin care market. That’s more than doubled since 1997. One of the major ways skin ages is through a loss of collagen. Collagen is a naturally occurring substance that helps keep skin looking plump, lifted, and line-free. We lose some collagen because of the natural aging process, but even more can be lost due to sun exposure and toxins in our environment.

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These exposures increase the rate at which free radicals are absorbed into the skin, where they attack and destroy collagen. When left unchecked, free radicals destroy the skin’s support structure. Once the damage is severe enough, skin sags and wrinkles form.

That is one reason why the loudest anti-aging buzz right now is antioxidants ― nutrients that attack and disable free radicals before they have a chance to destroy our collagen and our skin. Some may even help increase natural collagen production. Antioxidants can reverse collagen damage, which means younger looking skin.

Although research on topically applied antioxidant green tea showed it has strong anti-inflammatory and even anti-cancer properties, an 8-week medical study conducted at Stanford University was disappointing from a cosmetic perspective. The study failed to demonstrate anti-aging effects. More promising, however, were studies conducted, by David McDaniel, MD, of the Eastern Virginia College of Medicine on a number of other antioxidants. Specifically, McDaniel looked at the protective capacity of several topically applied antioxidants, including vitamins C and E, kinetin, alpha-lipoic acid, and idebenone. While all showed some benefits to the skin, McDaniel found idebenone to be the clear leader of the pack.A powerful micronutrient related to CoQ10, (another natural defender against cell damage) idebenone appeared to also provide a strong defense for skin. “Clinical studies thus far have shown that idebenone…quench[es] inflammatory reactions and… is a powerful antioxidant that destroys free radicals,” McDaniel recently told the Dermatology Times.
According to dermatologist Bruce Katz, MD, however, many women cannot tolerate idebenone products. “It can cause redness and irritation in some women that makes it difficult to use,” says Katz, director of Juva Skin and Laser Center in New York City.  He advises women with sensitive skin to check with a dermatologist before trying products containing idebenone.Some of the testing may have already paid off for an ingredient derived from the little known fruit called the coffee berry that some now hail as the strongest antioxidant ― and possibly the most powerful anti-aging ingredient ― to date. The same plant that bears the fruit of your Starbuck’s buzz, may also add a kick to your complexion. Coffee berry is gaining in popularity, and it contains high levels of antioxidants. Coffee berry was introduced to doctors at the 2007 American Academy of Dermatology annual meeting. Since then, new research and a handful of products have been launched.

“It’s arguably the hottest thing out there now,” says Joel Schlessinger, MD. Schlessinger, who is president of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Esthetic Surgery. “There is a current study showing coffee berry has higher antioxidants than any product ever tested ― including green tea and idebenone.”

The first coffee berry product ― a skin cream called Revale ― has already hit the market. AOne is Estee Lauder’s new “Future Perfect” line, boasting a “skin recharge cocktail” that offers the anti-aging protection of an antioxidant known as NDGA that occurs naturally in the body. Recent studies have shown that, when applied topically, it may act somewhat like estrogen, helping to prevent the loss of collagen in skin.

Clinique’s Continuous Relief Antioxidant Moisturizer boasts eight antioxidants. At least one ― Eukarion-134 ― supposedly has the unique ability to recycle itself after each free-radical hit. This is significant because most other antioxidants lose their protective power after attacking and disabling a single free radical molecule. By recycling itself, this new antioxidant keeps on working, continuing to fight the damage that leads to aging, for a longer period on the surface of skin.

Bearing a slightly more scientific pedigree are ingredients known as “peptides.” The frenzy actually began several years ago when the National Institutes of Health funded studies on wound healing. These studies showed that a chain of five peptides could instruct the body to ratchet up collagen production in response to wounding. More recently, smaller studies found that when applied topically, this same peptide chain seemed to respond to aging, collagen-deficient skin as if it were wounded and so encouraged collagen production.While the level of activity is still under debate, the next generation of this technology ― known as tripeptides ― is already here.
“These are designer peptides,” says Beer, who describes them as “groups of amino acids” that inhibit some of the natural enzymatic ― and yes, aging ― processes that break down and destroy critical components of youthful skin, including collagen. “By providing stability for these and other critical components,” Beer says, “[tripeptides] tip the scales in favor of remaining more youthful and less damaged.”Lumene, a Scandinavian company exporting moderately priced skin care to the U.S., is counting on that. They combine tripeptides with the antioxidant properties of sea buckthorn oil, for their new Premium Beauty line ― with research they claim proves it works.
The much more costly Osmotics Anti-Radical Age Defense Line offers a tripeptide formula that not only has antioxidant properties, but also claims to stimulate collagen production.
Narins continues to site a lack of published medical data. Schlessinger is even more blunt. “Cosmeceuticals can do some wonderful things for the skin,” he says, “including diminishing brown spots, improving texture, and making the skin feel smooth again. But filling in wrinkles ― I don’t think so.”Until published medical studies do surface, it may be up to consumers to decide for themselves if even the cosmetic results have merit.One more class of products offering new hope in a jar takes the sci-fi approach of tinkering with DNA to turn back the clock one molecule at a time. One such product is called “Remergent.” Sold through doctor’s offices, Remergent reportedly works by delivering to cells small packets of enzymes with the capability of repairing DNA. When DNA, the basic component in all living cells, is damaged ― whether by too much sun exposure, or through the chemical assaults of pollution ― cells undergo changes that can result in anything from accelerated aging to disease, including cancer.
Skin Care News via http://www.webmd.com/beauty/aging/more-hope-jar-anti-aging-skin-care-promise
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